I keep thinking, please, please stop. Please don’t buy me that coffee. Please don’t buy me lunch. Really, you don’t have to. When I first came to Ukraine in 2007 the currency was 1 USD to 8 Ukrainian hryvnia. This summer it was 1 to 14. And now it’s 1 to 25. At one point last month it went to over 30. I’ve been in Ukraine now for several days and the hospitality and generosity of people going through a truly difficult time, an economic crisis and a war, continues to amaze me. People have their pride and really care about how they treat guests. At the same time it makes me really sad to see this country going through another economic crisis as well as the war that began a year ago. I spent the first few days of my trip in the western Ukrainian city of Lviv where I reported on the volunteer war effort. I keep hearing the same phrase over and over that roughly translates as “we must defend our land.”
People are doing what they can here. Circumstances aren’t great: the army still doesn’t have the weapons it needs, reforms aren’t moving fast enough, and too many people are unnecessarily suffering. It has been nine months since my last trip here and things haven’t gotten better. Yet for many people in western Ukraine, there’s a sense that they will overcome, because freedom and territorial integrity come above everything else.
I’ve said it before here, Lviv is one of my favorite cities in the whole world. The history, the old buildings, the people, the food, I love this city. I’m lucky to have spent several days there reporting and walking.
Pototsky Palace and Cinderella:
I’m in Kyiv now with more stories to come soon. I keep hoping that on my next trip here things will be different and this war won’t be happening any longer.
The interior of cafe Poshta where the city’s Austro-Hungarian legacy takes center stage: